Southern Thai Food

Southern Thai Cooking
(Originally appeared in Phuket Magazine)
By Michael Moore

The food of southern Thailand is noted for its sharp, intense flavors, the most
dominant of which is the heat generated by chilies and the abundant use of
peppercorns. Not far behind is the sour taste provided by limes, vinegar and a
collection of local herbs. To modify the intensity of these and other assaults on the
taste buds, southerners eat large quantities of raw, fresh vegetables like cucumbers,
eggplants, bean sprouts and green beans.
Bitterness is another taste enjoyed in the south. The Thais in general are more
likely to appreciate food that is bitter than most cultures, but southerners are
especially fond of it. The sataw bean, its most unique source, is found in the long,
ladder-like pods of a tree that grows throughout the southern Thailand. Affection
for this bean is unique to the region and other Thais often identify southerners and
southern food with this unusual and intensely flavored legume.
If you are interested in trying some sataw beans, goong pat sataw, is a good
place to start. This is a simple stir-fried dish made with shrimp, garlic, fish sauce, a
little sugar and, of course, the bitter beans. Moo pat sataw is a similar dish, but
made with pork. Both preparations are noticeably bitter, but many people,
including visitors, find them a refreshing change of pace.
Southern Thailand’s location on the long, narrow Malaysian Peninsula has had a
significant impact on its cuisine. The proximity of the sea has made the region
famous throughout Thailand for the quality and quantity of its seafood. When
visiting the south, Thais from other parts of the country immediately head for a
seafood restaurant.
There are a myriad of delicious seafood dishes available, but many of them
aren’t distinctly southern in character. Gaeng leuang, a thin hot and sour curry
made with water rather than coconut milk, is a notable exception. This explosive
dish is a classic example of what southern Thais enjoy: incendiary heat and lip
puckering sourness. If you want a sample of what southern cooking is all about,
this is the one dish to try.
Phuket is especially well-known for its seafood. Its proximity to the Andaman
Sea and the rest of the Indian Ocean provide it with an abundant supply of marine
life. At one time the riches of the Gulf of Thailand supplied all of the country with
seafood, but pollution and over-fishing have done much to eliminate this resource.
If you want to enjoy Thai seafood at its best, Phuket and the other areas of the
south facing the Indian Ocean are where you will find it.

The Thais are masters at preparing seafood. It is barbecued, steamed, stir-fried,
eaten raw, cooked in liquids and grilled in foil or banana leaf envelopes.
Thailand’s seafood dishes are among the country’s least complex dishes, but a
sauce is usually involved, either as a part of the dish or as something that is served
on the side.
The Thais are particularly good at steaming fish, and there is nothing more
delicious than a delicate fish that has been steamed. It comes to the table moist, full
of flavor and easy to eat. Pla neung manao is especially good. In this dish garlic,
chilies and lime juice are spread on a fish that is steamed until done. When served,
the garlic and chilies are pushed aside, leaving a fish resting in a delicious lemony
sauce. On one of your forays to a seafood restaurant give steamed fish a try. You’ll
be glad you did.
The peninsular location has also opened the South to influences from other
cultures. Powdered turmeric and other “Indian” spices frequently appear in
Southern dishes. Even more apparent is the impact made by seafaring Chinese who
arrived in the area long ago, bringing with them their love of wheat flour noodles.
Hokkien mee, a spaghetti like noodle, is enjoyed by all Thais in the south. Shops
specializing in various preparations using Hokkien mee are especially popular in
Phuket Town.

Many of the people in the south are Muslim and this has created a distinct
sub-cuisine. The curries enjoyed by Muslims are rich, sweet and flavored with
many of the spices found in Indian curries. Gaeng Mussamun, a curry popular
throughout the country, began life in the Muslim south. It is flavored with
cinnamon and cardoman and uses potatoes and peanuts as ingredients. Foreign
visitors who find Thai food unbearably hot often turn to Muslim curries as they are
generally less spicy than those favored by Buddhist Thais.
Another signature dish of the south is kao yum. It is so popular there are small
shops in Phuket and other population centers that specialize in only this dish. It is
made with Jasmine rice that is tossed with a mixture of herbs, vegetables and fruits
that are held together with a sauce that is sweet and sour. To all of this, a
prodigious amount of dried red chili is added. You should try it if you get a chance,
but remember it is likely to knock your socks off unless you specifically ask the
vendor to go easy on the chili.
Southern Thai food is hot, sour, sweet and sometimes bitter. It is an expression
of a unique culture and heritage. While you are in the south, sample some of the
traditional dishes. Their intense flavors will make an impact that you will never
forget.